Tips for Better Candid Photography

Candid photo 1Candid styles of photography are increasingly becoming popular both in general day to day photography but also in formal photographic situations. Below are a number of tips to help photographers improve their ‘candid’ photography.

Please note that these tips are not about taking sneaky, voyeuristic or true paparazzi shots (ie photographing people without their permission) but rather about how to add a more candid feel to the shots you take of people that you know. Here’s a set of tips for improving your skills at taking candid photos:

1. Take your Camera Everywhere

Take your Camera EverywhereProbably the best way to take spontaneous photographs is to always be ready to do so. Taking your camera with you everywhere also helps people to be more at ease with you taking their photo.

I find that my friends and family just expect me to have my camera out so when I do fire it up it’s not a signal to them to pose but it’s a normal part of our interaction – this means that they are relaxed and the photos are natural.

2. Use a Long Zoom

Use a Long ZoomObviously the further you are away from your subject the less likely they will be to know that you’re photographing them and the more natural and relaxed they’ll act.

Using a telephoto lens or long zoom enables you to shoot from outside their personal space but keep the feeling of intimacy in the shot you’re taking.

3. Kill the Flash

Perhaps the most obvious way that you can signal to another person that you’re photographing them is to use a flash. There’s nothing like a blinding flash of light in the eyes to kill a moment. If possible (and it’s not always) attempt to photograph without the flash if you’re aiming for candid shots.

When in lower light situations increase your ISO setting, use a faster lens, open up your aperture or if your camera has a ‘natural light mode’ turn it on. Hopefully one or a combination of these approaches will help you blend into the background a little more.

4. Shoot lots

When you shoot multiple images quickly of a person you can sometimes get some surprising and spontaneous shots that you’d have never gotten if you shot just one. Switch your camera to continuous shooting mode and shoot in bursts of images and in doing so you’ll increase your chances of that perfect shot.

5. Position Yourself strategically

Position Yourself strategicallyWhile Candid Photography is about capturing the spontaneity of a moment and getting that perfect shot at the right split second of time I find that if you think ahead and anticipate what is about to unfold in front of you that you can greatly increase the chances of getting some great shots.

Which way will people be facing? What will they be doing? What will the light be like? Thinking through these issues will save you having to run around repositioning yourself when you should be shooting images – it’ll also mean you take a whole heap less shots of the back of people’s heads!

6. Photograph People Doing things

Photograph People Doing thingsImages of people doing things tend to be much more interesting than people sitting passively doing nothing. For one your subject will be focussed upon something which adds energy to a photo (and takes their focus off you) but it also puts them in context and adds an element of story to your image.

Timing is everything in Candid shots so wait until they are distracted from you and fully focussed upon what they are doing or who they are with and you’ll inject a feeling into your shots of them being unaware and that the viewer of your image is looking on unseen.

7. Photograph People with People

Photograph People with PeopleSomething very interesting happens when you photograph more than one person in an image at a time – it introduces relationship into the shot. Even if the two (or more) people are not really interacting in the shot it can add depth and a sense of story into the viewing of the image.

Of course ideally in candid shots you’d like some interaction between your subjects as that will add emotion into the shot also as we the viewer observe how the people are acting.

8. Frame Images with Foreground Elements

Frame Images with Foreground ElementsA trick that is often used in candid shots is to purposely include something in the foreground of the shot to make it look as though you’re hiding behind it. You might do this with by shooting over someone’s shoulder, by including a little of a tree branch or the frame of a doorway. This can add a great effect to your candid photos.

9. Shoot from the Hip

Shoot from the HipIf your subject is aware that you’re there and that you have your camera out they might tense up or act a little unnaturally as they see you raising your camera to the eye.

The beauty of digital cameras is that it doesn’t cost you anything to take lots of shots and it can be well worth shooting without raising your camera. To do this most effectively you might want to set your lens to a wider angle setting to make up for any aiming problems you might have.

10. Mix up your Perspective

Mix up your PerspectiveThe other beauty of shooting from the hip is that it gives you a slightly different perspective to take the shot from. This adds to the candid nature of the shots. In fact sometimes it’s the slightly crooked, slightly out of focus or poorly composed shots taken from this type of angle that ends up looking the best because they come across as quite random.

Of course, you can add all these new perspectives to your shots without shooting from the hip. Crouch down, get up high, frame your shots on an angle, zoom in close and then quickly zoom out to a wide angle, break the rules of composition etc and you will add a new perspective to your shots that can mean they look fresh and surprising.

11. Take Posed Shots into Candid Territory

Take Posed Shots into Candid TerritoryOne of the nice times to shoot candid shots is when other people are taking formal ones. This is because everyone in the shot is focused on the one element (the other photographer) – but it’s not you. If the main photographer has posed the happy couple of the day or their bridal partly look for a different angle to them to take a shot of the same subject. Often if you take a few steps to the side and shoot from almost a profile position you can get great shots.

Also zooming in to take shots of just one or two of the people in a larger group at these times can work well. Also try zooming right out to take a shot of the photographer and their subject all in one. If you’re the only photographer and you’re taking formal shots a great technique is to take your posed shot and then continue to shoot after everyone thinks you’ve finished. It’s often the shots just after the posed one that are the best as people relax and look at each other.

Via the Digital Photography School. Photos taken from my photo collection.

  • http://alexandrusavu.ro Alexandru Savu

    I don’t remember signing a release model for that photo. :)

  • Lucian

    Alex, erai intr-un loc public, asa ca Tudy avea tot dreptul sa te fotografieze. Sau ma insel eu?
    :smile:

  • Dorian

    Actually, #2 is not a good recommendation for several reasons:
    1. Long lens means higher f number, ergo closed lens. That means higher ISO, (up to 800 in broad daylight) which means higher noise (which is a real problem unless you use Canon 30D or better).

    2. Long lens means instability, especially at the far end of the focal distance. Even the slightest shake can cause blurring and lack of sharpness.

    3. With a long lens you are as discrete as an elephant in town square in mid day. Candid & portrait photography are not wildlife where you can mount your lens on a tripod and swing around unnoticed, people tend to notice long lenses. Using a tripod to alleviate the stability problem only makes things worse.

    A prime lens 50mm/f1.4 is probably the best choice all-around, especially if you have a 10mp or better camera because after taking a shot you can crop to get the details you want (which gives you quite a lot of lattitude in terms of distance).
    Also mid day isn’t the best time for outdoor photos since strong light can result in severe overexposed and oversaturated images (such as the old man sitting with a glass of beer image).

  • http://www.tudy.ro Tudy

    1. Of course, you are the one supposed to “balance” the aperture/ISO so that the photo turns to be the way you’d like. Zooming helps in the cases where you don’t want to get too close to the subject, but you also don’t want to shoot a panoramic view and then crop the part that you need.

    2. Agreed. In this case, image stabilizers do help, but not that much. Again, it’s a matter of keeping things in balance, not going for full zoom or highest ISO.

    3. That depends on where you stand, and on how inconspicuous you really want to be. :)

    As far as the photo with the old man goes, I couldn’t really ask him to hang around until the evening, so that I can get better lighting. :roll:

    All in all, thanks for pointing out these things. I appreciate your intervention.

  • http://www.alexandrusavu.ro alexandru savu

    You’re shy and don’t want to get close and personal?
    Use a zoom lens (I recommend something like canon 70-200 f4 – great money/quality ratio).

    You’re a little wanna be spy ?
    Try out any decent wide lens(like the sigma 18-50 f3.5 – f5.6).

    That’s if you’re using a semi-pro dSLR.

    The 50mm I hear? Maybe on a FF camera.
    On a crop sensor that equals to 80mm in 35mm format.
    Not ideal for street photos. I’d better go for the 35mm f2 or f1.4 or the more entry level *insert you’re favorite wide kit here*.

  • Dorian

    f4 is not good enough, it’s too much and something like 35-200mm on f1.4 or 2.8 costs like $800+ .
    You can’t start your time/ISO/aperture adjustment from f4, because you can only go up
    50mm is quite enough, unless you’re in a tight room where you can’t move to like 1.5-2 meters away from the subject. And for street photos it’s perfect because you have to move anyway to get the right angle for a shot (and at least during summer it’s not so nice to have a brick of a lens attached to your neck to move around).
    I’ve been using a Pentax prime of 50mm for street portraits (35mm is ok too but I couldn’t find a prime lens of this size, not to mention that for detail portraits you have to move closer) for about a year and never felt the need for another lens for this purpose. Taking an example from Cluj, 50mm is more than adequate to cover the entire Unirii plaza from Cluj (using cropping for the opposite corner, of course)
    Of course, for landscapes where wide angle is a must, I have my own 18-75mm/f2.8 – 3.5 ($350).
    For telephoto, I have a 50-200mm / classic f4-f5.6, but it’s a cheap piece of glass ($175 on bhphoto) which has vignetting around the corners.

    With a 200mm lens (which by the way, you can’t shoot hand-held past 100mm, not even if it’s small format) you can’t be inconspicuous anywhere on the (again) the Unirii plaza you have in Cluj.

  • sanda

    superbe poze :roll: … insa din punctul meu de vedere….micuta in rosu, portocaliu si alb e chiar mai frumoasa si decat alex :wink: … felicitari pentru site tudy :cool:

  • http://www.tudy.ro Tudy

    :)

  • http://alexandrusavu.ro Alexandru Savu

    Sanda, greşeşti, tot eu’s mai ‘mos :) ))))